How We Mounted a 100W Solar Panel on Our Yucca-Pac Camper
- Dan
- 19 hours ago
- 6 min read
Our 100W solar panel has already proven useful as part of the simple 12V system in our Yucca-Pac Safari camper. The problem was that every time we travelled, the panel was still riding loose in the back.
For a family of six, storage disappears quickly. A solar panel sliding around inside the camper was taking up space we could use for food, clothing, recovery gear and everything else that comes with family camping let alone risk getting damaged!
The Yucca-Pac already has an extruded aluminum roof rack, so the next logical step was getting the panel mounted up top.
Using four angle brackets, T-slot nuts and basic M6 hardware, I mounted the panel securely between the roof rack rails for approximately $30 in hardware.
The panel mount is now complete. The permanent cable routing is not, and that is a decision I am deliberately taking more time to make.
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Why We Mounted the Solar Panel on the Roof Rack
When we first built our simple camper power system, the NOMA 100W solar panel remained portable. We could set it on the ground, angle it toward the sun and connect it to the exterior solar port on the Yucca-Pac.
That approach worked, but it also meant finding somewhere to carry the panel. Inside the camper it could move around, get damaged and consume valuable storage space. Mounting it on the roof rack solves those problems while keeping the panel available whenever we stop to camp.
I also wanted the panel to sit lower than the top of the roof rack rails. Keeping it low should help protect it from the airflow while driving potentially adding to unwanted noise. It also leaves the crossbars higher than the panel, allowing something like a canoe or kayak to potentially be supported by the rack without resting directly on the solar panel.
Obviously, the panel would not produce power while covered by cargo.
Leaving space below the panel also allows air to move underneath it instead of mounting it directly against the black camper roof.
For a complete look at the battery, solar controller and diesel-heater setup this panel supports, read our Simple 12V Diesel Heater Power Setup for Our Yucca-Pac Camper.
Hardware Used for the Solar Panel Mount
The mounting system is fairly simple and should translate to many extruded aluminum camper racks and roof platforms.
I used:
Four angle brackets
T-slot nuts
M6 cap screws
M6 nuts
Lock washers
A reusable strap for securing the cable during travel
These are the pieces I originally ordered online:
The online order was not going to arrive in time for this project, so I completed the installation using equivalent brackets and M6 hardware that I could source locally or already had available.
The linked pieces are what I had planned to use. Anyone copying this setup should confirm the dimensions and thread pitch required for their own roof rack and solar panel.
The total cost of the mounting hardware was approximately $30 while purchased localley.
That price does not include the solar panel, charge controller or the rest of our 12V system.
Tools Used for the Installation
This project did not require a large collection of tools.
I used:
Tape measure
Marker
Allen keys
Phillips screwdriver
Drill and drill bit
Wrench or socket for the M6 hardware
The tape measure was probably the most important tool. The panel needed to be centred between the roof rack rails, and I wanted all four brackets aligned before tightening anything permanently.
Preparing the 100W Solar Panel
Our NOMA panel came with a folding rear support that allowed it to stand at an angle when used on the ground. Since the panel was becoming a fixed roof-rack installation, I removed that support to eliminate the extra hardware.
I also removed the plastic corner protectors. They were only there to protect the panel corners and prevented the aluminum frame from sitting evenly against the mounting brackets. The plastic pieces were not structural, and I did not intend to reuse them.
With the stand and corner caps removed, I had a clean aluminum frame to measure and mount.
Before modifying any solar panel, check the warranty and manufacturer’s instructions. Drilling into the aluminum frame may affect warranty coverage, and the drill must stay well clear of the glass, wiring and solar cells.
Measuring the Panel and Yucca-Pac Roof Rack
The solar panel is approximately 67 centimetres, or 26.5 inches, wide.
he available space between the Yucca-Pac roof rack rails is approximately 71 centimetres, or 27.75 inches. That left a small but workable gap for the angle brackets.
The rack measured approximately 1.6 metres across, while the panel was about one metre long.
Positioning the panel roughly 30 centimetres in from each side gave me a centred starting point.
I installed the T-slot nuts and angle brackets in the extruded aluminum rails but left everything loose.
That allowed each bracket to slide until the panel was centred and all four mounting points lined up.
Leaving everything loose until the panel was positioned ended up being important. Tightening one point too early would have made the final alignment much more difficult.
Marking and Drilling the Solar Panel Frame
With the brackets loosely positioned, I placed the panel between the rails and used a marker to transfer the mounting-hole locations onto the aluminum panel frame.
I then removed the panel and drilled the required holes into the side of the frame.
Because the fit was tight, I had to reverse the order of the install, make sur eto have the brackets mounted to the panel first otherwise I found that I could not get the 10mm wrench on the nuts.
Each mounting point used M6 hardware with a lock washer.
Once all four brackets were connected and the panel was sitting square, I checked the measurements again and tightened the complete assembly.
he finished panel sits solidly between the rails and remains below the highest point of the roof rack.
Why the Solar Wiring Is Still Temporary
The Yucca-Pac already has an exterior solar connection, which makes the temporary setup easy. For now, the panel cable can be secured beneath the roof rack during travel. When we reach camp, we can route it down the side and connect it to the existing solar terminal.
That works, but it is not the final wiring solution.
The next step is deciding whether to route the cable through the roof or find a clean way around it.
I am hesitant to drill through a one-piece camper roof unless I am confident in the cable-entry location, sealing method and long-term maintenance.
Silicone alone is not something I want to trust indefinitely on a black roof that becomes extremely hot in the summer. If I add a roof penetration, I want it to be a proper cable-entry system that remains serviceable and watertight.
Until that decision is made, securing the wire for travel and connecting it at camp keeps the system usable without rushing a permanent hole into the camper.
How This Improves Our Simple 12V System
Mounting the panel does not change the electrical side of our system.
We are still using the same 100W panel, basic solar controller and Group 31 AGM battery that powered our HCalory diesel heater for approximately 26 hours during a cold, wet Alberta weekend.
What it changes is how easy the system is to carry and use.
The panel no longer takes up space inside the camper. It is less likely to be damaged by shifting gear, and it is already positioned when we arrive.
We only need to secure the cable during travel and connect it when we want to charge.
This is still a temporary electrical system, but it is becoming a much more practical one.
Was the $30 Solar Panel Mount Worth It?
For approximately $30 in hardware, this was an easy improvement to the Yucca-Pac build.
It freed up valuable interior space, gave the 100W panel a secure home and used the extruded aluminum roof rack that was already on the camper. It also avoided drilling into the camper roof for the mounting portion of the installation.
There are still questions to answer about permanent wiring, a better charge controller, battery monitoring and the final 12V layout. Those upgrades will come as we continue using the camper and learn what our family actually needs.
For now, the panel is mounted, the camper has more room inside and our simple power system is one step closer to being ready whenever we need it.
Would you drill through the roof for the solar cable, or would you find a way to route it around the outside?
If you have installed a roof cable entry, let us know what you used to seal it and whether it has required any maintenance.
Follow the Complete Yucca-Pac and F-350 Build
This solar panel installation is one part of our larger family camper build.
You can see the camper layout and why we chose it in Inside Our Yucca-Pac Safari Camper on Our Ford F-350 Family Overland Build.
You can also follow every stage of Jolene’s transformation through our Ford F-350 Overland Hunting Build, including the Yucca-Pac, 37-inch tires, fuel economy testing, heat, power and the family sleep-and-storage system still to come.
Hopefully we see you out on the trails.
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